INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES “Our manufacturers operate on razor- thin margins and have less ability to shoulder this burden compared to our purchasers, who still need to put food on the table,” GMAC added. The government has announced a host of measures to alleviate the plight of garment workers whose wages have been affected because of production suspensions. In the plan, garment workers whose factories have closed will receive 60 percent of the minimum wage. Two-thirds of that is the respon- sibility of the factory owners, with the remaining 20 percent being provided by the government. While China’s supply chains have re- portedly resumed, ensuring the flow of 60 percent of the raw materials used in Cambodia’s textile industry, cloth- ing manufacturers are still facing even greater problems because of the de- clining supply orders from distributors and retailers in Europe and the United States, the main market destinations for the Kingdom’s garment industry. “Scores of clothing brands and retail- ers have cancelled orders without as- suming financial responsibility even when workers had finished making their products,” Human Rights Watch (HRW) claimed in a statement. “Many supplier factories in Asia are strapped for cash and unable to pay workers’ wages and other compensa- tion because of the brands’ actions,” the statement continued, adding that the COVID-19 pandemic has caused both the sales of clothing brands and retailers to plummet. According to the HRW, many have closed their retail stores to check the spread of the virus. While navigating this crisis, some brands and retailers have taken advantage of unfair pur- chasing practices. “Brands should take steps to minimise the devastating eco- nomic consequences for garment workers in their global supply chains and for their families who depend on this income to survive,” said Aruna Kashyap, senior counsel in the women’s rights division of HRW.Garment workers in a Phnom Penh factory. Buyers who are not honouring their orders are creating job losses. Through an open letter posted late last week, GMAC urged all buyers to fulfill their purchase contracts by taking delivery and paying for goods already produced and currently in production as is their obligation. Thus far, HRW said the H&M Group, Inditex (Zara and other brands), and Target USA have taken steps in the right direction, which these and likely other com- panies have committed to take delivery of goods already produced or in pro- duction and pay for them as previously agreed upon. “More brands should take similar steps to ensure fair treatment of workers, including payment of wages and other compensation, and minimise job loss,” HRW said. At present, around 90 of Cambodia’s garment factories have suspended their operations, resulting in 60,000 job losses, according to the Ministry of Labour and Vocational Training. Bangladeshi factories have reportedly lost an estimated $138 million so far due to cancelled or suspended orders from international brands, while an estimated one million workers have already been laid off or temporarily suspended. In Myanmar, 20,000 workers have already lost their jobs and one industry expert estimated that as many as 70,000 garment work- ers could lose jobs within a week. OEKO-TEX®: no certification fee for face masks Zurich, April 20, 2020 - With immedi- ate effect, the OEKO-TEX® Associa- tion will waive the license fee for STAN- DARD 100 certification of mouth and nose masks. With the current demand and expert recommendations to wear mouth and nose coverings in public, OEKO-TEX® wants to support continued safety of the population. "We need to stay together in this extraordinary situation: now and for our future," said General Secretary Georg Dieners. "The crisis chal- lenges many manufacturers who are confronted with a logistically difficult task.” This industry support follows the process modifications for certificate renewals during the Corona pandemic. This adjustment offers an important service for producers of face masks while ensuring continued sustainability and public safety from harmful substances during the corona crisis. NCM-APRIL 2020 84