Water and Oil Repellent Finishing of Textiles by UV Curing o ples were dried at 80 C for 60s, and finally irradiated in air by a static mer- cury discharge UV lamp providing three tunable irradiances: 146 mW/ cm2, 85 mW/cm2, or 67 mW/cm2. Samples were exposed to the radia- tion on one side for a time of 60 s. The photoinitiator concentration was as- sessed after previous tests aimed to obtain the maximum grafting yield of the oligomers in the adopted irradia- tion conditions without stickiness on the final fabric. It is worth to noting that, by UV irradiation in air rather than in nitrogen, the radical reactions are slackened by oxygen interference, hence a higher photoinitiator concen- tration is needed to speed up the initi- ation step. In fact, in the previous lab- oratory experiments of irradiation in inert atmosphere a 2 wt % photoinitia- tor concentration on finishing agent was enough to achieve satisfactory grafting yields [2]. The flow diagram of the UV grafting process is schematically depicted in Figure 5. The thermal curing on refer- ence samples was carried out follow- ing the same diagram without photo- initiator addition, while the irradiation step was substituted by thermal treat- o ment in a hot flue at 150 C for 5 min. Three samples for each process were prepared for a statistical treatment of data. Water and oil absorbency were tested by measuring the time it takes a drop of liquid placed on the fabric surface to be completely absorbed into the fab- ric, according to AATCC/ASTM Test Method TS-018 [21]. The contact an- gles (CA) were evaluated by a CA ten- siometer DSA20E (Krüss GmbH, Ham- burg, Germany) equipped with a soft- ware for drop profile fitting (Krüss GmbH, Hamburg, Germany). The test liquids used were HPLC-grade water and paraffin oil (Sigma Aldrich, Milano, Italy) with surface tension of 72 mN/m and 31.5 mN/m, respectively. The con- tact angles considered were the aver- age of at least five measurements for each sample with a standard deviation of about 2–3%.Table 1: Absorbency of drops on treated samples MethodFabricFinishing AgentConc. (g/L)Irradiance (mW/cm2 )Water (min)Oil (min) Thermal ThermalPM PMOleophobol Pymasil50 40– –>120 49>120 1 Thermal ThermalCOT COTOleophobol Pymasil50 40– –>120 34>120 1 UV UVPM PMOleophobol Oleophobol50 2067 67>120 >120>120 >120 UV UVPM PMOleophobol Pymasil20 10146 67>120 90>120 2 UV UVCOT COTOleophobol Oleophobol50 5067 146>120 >120>120 >120 UV UVCOT COTOleophobol Oleophobol20 2067 146>120 >120>120 >120 UVCOTPymasil4067801 Color measurements were carried out by a Datacolor 110R reflectance spec- trophotometer (Datacolor AG Europe, Dietlikon, Switzerland), which enables the determination of color differences between a sample and a reference through the formula: (1) whereare the differences of lightness, chroma, and hue respectively. For color tolerance evaluation in textile industry, the CMC (Color Measurement Committee) sys- tem is currently used [22]. An ellipsoi- dal volume around the position of the color reference in the color space is calculated as function of If a sample fall inside the ellipsoid is deemed acceptable, otherwise it is re- jected. According to this system, = 1 is assumed as limiting value un- der which samples can be considered to have the same color as the refer- ence. All measurements were then statisti- cally evaluated by ANOVA with Minit- ab 16 software (Minitab Inc., State College, PA, USA), in order to point out the most influencing parameters. The plots obtained by this approach are NCM-APRIL 2020 70reported in the Supplementary Materi- al (SM). Results and Discussion The study about water and oil repel- lent finishing has been performed on the three fabrics of different composi- tion and color. The main parameters considered and varied, besides the substrate, were the finishing agent and the application process. Irradiance and concentration of the finishing agent in the impregnation solution, which are directly related to the final add-on, were the process parameters further inves- tigated. Obtained results were evaluated in terms of absorbency of water or oil drops on the treated surface, contact angles (CA), and color measurements. Absorbency of Water and Oil Drops Absorption times of water or paraffin oil drops, with a volume of about 10 L, were evaluated on PM and COT sam- ples treated by Pymasil or Oleophobol. If the drop was not absorbed after 120 min, the test was stopped and the sub- strate was considered completely re- pellent toward the considered liquid. Results and process parameters are summarized in Table 1.